In this master class, we will tell you how to sew a pumpkin head doll. This name, the doll received because of the peculiarities of the shape of the head. It consists of wedges, and the shape of the head resembles a pumpkin.

We will need:

• fabric for the doll (this doll is made of satin - stretch);
• synthetic winterizer;
• cotton yarn for hair;
• coffee, vanillin (for toning the doll);
• doll pattern;
• thread and needle;
• foam sponge;
• baking paper.

Step 1.

According to the attached diagram, you need to draw a pattern (doll details). On the patterns of all the details, you need to add a few centimeters for seam allowances. Since a bunny is attached to the doll, there is also a pattern for the bunny. It can be sewn from an ordinary towel, and then tinted with ordinary acrylic paints. Step 2

When all the details of the pattern are cut out, they need to be sewn. Details for legs and arms are sewn along the side seams. The torso is also sewn along the side seams, but you need to leave holes where you will sew the arms and legs. The head for the doll is sewn from six parts. But at the junction of the wedges, at the bottom of the head, you need to leave a hole. Through it, you will need to unscrew the blank for the head and fill it with padding polyester. Sew the neck of the doll completely. You will then insert it into the head of the doll and sew it with a hidden seam.
Step 3

All sewn parts, you need to fill with padding polyester. As a filler, you can use sintepukh or even holofiber. Handles for the doll, you need to fill with padding polyester not very tightly. This will help your arms move more. Then you need to stuff the torso with synthetic winterizer and sew handles to it. Now you need to sew the legs to the body. They need to be sewn on without feet. Now fill the legs with padding polyester, but only up to the knees (you need to fill upper part legs).
Next on your knees, you need to make a transverse seam. It is needed so that you can bend the legs of the doll. Then fill the rest of the legs with synthetic winterizer and sew the feet.

Nevertheless, pumpkinhead dolls are sewn a lot and even actively sold. But it will not be about this, but about the doll sewn by me.

Regarding the pattern of this doll, I want to say that in fact there are several options. All pattern options are freely available on the Internet. You just need to choose which one you like and download, and it's completely free.

I sewed my doll according to the combined pattern, added something, changed something. By the way, this happened a very long time ago, at the dawn of my passion for textile dolls. Below I presented my version of the pattern on which the Snow White doll is sewn.

On the Internet there are patterns of a pumpkin head doll with different head options, i.e. this is a round head of five or six identical wedges, but either with a spout on the face or without. And also, either with ears or without.

The pattern of the legs can also be different, either these are plump crooked legs, or slender legs with a thin elongated foot. I sewed my Snow White doll exactly according to the pattern with a variant of slender legs.

By the way, according to the version of the pattern with plump legs, I also sewed a doll, but so far I haven’t shown it. Below is a preview photo of the doll. For some reason, she called her Pippi. The head of this doll is sewn according to the pattern with a spout and ears.

With a variant of the pattern, according to which the Pippi doll presented above is sewn, I will also definitely share it later in a separate article.

And now see my version of the pattern, according to which I sewed a pumpkin head doll Snow White. The pattern of the doll is located on a sheet of A4 office paper.

I repeat once again that a doll pattern is a hodgepodge of numerous pattern options, of which there are an infinite number on the vast expanses of the Internet.

And finally, I want to give a few very important tips for those who want to sew a doll according to this pattern. When cutting, the details of the head must be placed obliquely, i.e. 45 degrees in relation to the lobar thread of your fabric. On the presented pattern of the doll, the desired slope is already taken into account.

How to sew the wedges of the head parts together. First, sew together two wedges of the front part on the side where the spout is indicated.

At the same time, do not bring the seam to the end by about half a centimeter. Follow the same when stitching the remaining wedges. This will create a hole for inserting the doll's neck. It will also be a hole for stuffing the head with filler.

So, we sewed two wedges on one side and put these details aside.

Now work on the remaining three wedges. First sew two wedges on one side, then sew a third wedge to them. In total, you will get three wedges sewn together. This is the back of the doll's head.

Now sew together in a circle the resulting facial (from two wedges) and occipital (from three wedges) parts of the head.

At the same time, do not forget that at the bottom in the neck area it is necessary to leave the wedges not sewn up by about half a centimeter. These ends then just need to be tucked inward, after cutting in a circle. Although, you can tuck and without cutting.

On this I close the topic about the pattern of the pumpkin head doll. However, I still promise one more article about the pattern of a pumpkin head with plump legs.

Sew your pumpkin head doll according to this or any other pattern from the Internet. I wish beginners not to be afraid, but just start and everything will go like clockwork, perhaps not immediately. After all, everyone knows that the first pancake is most often lumpy. But it's such nonsense.

See you my dear readers. I see that you are becoming more and more every day. Which I am very happy about. Look often for new items, with which I promise not to delay.

pumpkin head dolls were so named in honor of their unusual heads, shaped very similar to a pumpkin. They first appeared almost 100 years ago, in 1918, when a certain John Barton Gruelle decided to please his daughter and sew an unusual doll for her, which he named Raggedy Ann.

It is not difficult to repeat his feat if you follow the MK instructions below. The author of the master class is a Russian craftswoman who sews products self made. It will take to make such a toy a small amount of time, and it will bring joy and comfort to your home for a very long time! And the sewing process itself will bring you real pleasure)

Head

The main highlight of the doll, her "pumpkin", is made from several separate petal-like parts that are sewn together. This technique is used to make the head voluminous, not flat. For the "petals" you need a white or flesh-colored fabric that resembles a shade of skin. Also used: simple pattern, synthetic winterizer or another option convenient for you for stuffing, thread, needle.

The pattern below can be used. Details for the head should be at least four, preferably six. Do not forget to paint on a small spout for two adjacent wedges. This amount of detail is used to make the face of the future doll more plastic, with soft outlines.

Lay the pattern on your piece of fabric, while retreating a few millimeters from its edge and observing. The wedge parts are sewn together so that you can then turn the blank on the front side - for this, leave part of it not sewn up - approximately in the middle of the back of the toy's head, where the last seam will be located.

Turn out the sewn future “pumpkin head” and fill it with material suitable for you, the hole that you left must be sewn up with a blind seam. Next, the face of the toy is created.

There is room for creativity here for you - you can draw eyes, a mouth, a nose with acrylic paints or use threads for embroidery instead. It is best to sketch a preliminary sketch on paper to determine not only how the details of the face will look, but also its expression.

Hair

Elena Kogan doll

In order for the toy's hair to be as realistic as possible, it is worth using knitting threads or colored wool for felting.

The easiest option for creating toy hairstyles is braids. You can also insert a thin wire into them in order to give the pigtails an unusual and interesting shape. For loose hair, "strands" of wool for felting are better suited. They are attached to the head of the toy with a special needle for such wool - they will need to be “rolled”.

It does not hurt to add a beautiful accessory to the doll - weave a bow into her hair or come up with an original hat.

Body

For the body, as for the head, you only need fabric, padding and, of course, time, which will take about half an hour. You will need to transfer the patterns below to the fabric, while retreating 5-7 millimeters from the contour - this space will go to the seam. You also need to sew the parts by analogy with the head - with the front side inward and with a hole in order to turn the workpiece out later. Stuff the parts as tightly as possible - the doll needs a dense base. Sew up the openings on the parts of the body with a blind seam and bast the head, arms and legs to the body.

Cloth

Clothes for a pumpkin head doll

This is an important part of the design of the doll, so it should be bright, elegant and pleasing to the eye. Whether it will be removed at the same time or not depends only on you - but if the toy is sewn for a child, making a removable outfit that can be replaced later is much more interesting.

In order to sew an uncomplicated chintz dress, it is enough to choose a pattern of clothes on our website to your taste and, if necessary, adjust it, relying on the size of the doll. See also MK for making shoes for dolls. Details need to be cut and sewn in the same way as the torso was sewn. To make it even more beautiful, the outfit can be decorated with embroidery, beads, lace, etc.

Create with pleasure!

Pumpkinhead dolls got their sonorous name thanks to non-standard form head resembling a pumpkin.

Their story began in 1918, when the first Raggedy Ann pumpkinhead doll was made by John Barton Gruelle for his little daughter.

A cute and fun pumpkin head can be easily sewn with your own hands, having familiarized yourself with a simple step by step master class from Elena Kogan - the famous domestic needlewoman. Sewing a pumpkin head will not take much time, such textile doll will decorate a children's room or living room, and will definitely bring summer mood to your home.

pumpkin head

The first master class from Elena Kogan is dedicated to the most distinctive feature of these cute dolls - their pumpkin-like head. It should consist of several individual petal parts that are sewn together. To make a head, you will need a simple pattern, a piece of tissue from a flesh or white color, filler and a set of threads with a needle.

Draw a small petal on paper, and cut it out along the contour, this pattern will come in handy for making the head. There must be at least four such details, only then it will be possible to recreate the famous pumpkin shape.

Elena Kogan advises using six to eight wedges to make a doll head, so you can create a more plastic shape and give the face a soft outline.

Transfer the contours from the pattern to the fabric, retreating a couple of millimeters from the edge. The details must be sewn so that the front side is inside the pumpkin, and there is a seam in the middle of the doll's face. Leave a small hole so that the part can be turned out later.

Fill this bag with padding polyester or holofiber, and then you should carefully sew the hole with a blind seam. Having sewed the head, you can proceed to the master class on making the face.

Prepare patterns for the body, arms and legs of the doll. Transferring it to the fabric, you should cut out the details, retreating a few millimeters from the contour. The fabric should be stitched so that the front side remains inside. Through the left hole, unscrew the workpiece and fill it with padding polyester. textile doll should have a dense base, so the parts should be stuffed as tightly as possible.

The hole should be carefully sewn by hand with an inconspicuous blind stitch. Having stuffed each detail separately, it is necessary to tack the handles, legs and head to the body, and then you can proceed to the tailoring master class.

Cloth

To give the pumpkin head elegance, you should sew a pretty, bright dress for her. Clothing can be removable or sewn directly onto the body. If you are sewing a decorative doll, you can sew on a dress with an apron, and for play children's dolls, it is better to leave the opportunity to change outfits.

Sewing a simple print dress will not take much time if you choose the right pattern. All parts are cut and stitched in the same way as the parts for the body. Calculate the size based on the proportions of your doll. The outfit can be decorated with lace or appliqué.

Lilac - fine art

Spring light and warmth.

And happiness is true, like heaven,

And defenseless, like a tear.

Footprints lilac With bliss

They take you straight to heaven.

And there, in an incomprehensible height,

Where weightless is your light step,

coming purple play -

There is happiness and always a full house!

(

"Lilac happiness": a textile doll - from a pattern to an outfit. Part 1

Lilac happiness... 20 cm

The result is such a cute doll, who will be interested in the whole process - welcome!

So let's get started. Materials you will need:

1. Knitwear for the body of the doll.

2. Adhesive for knitwear.

3. Fabric for the dress (any, preferably thin and low shedding).

4. Filler (synthetic winterizer, holofiber, sintepuh, etc.).

5. Acrylic paints.

6. Pastel (optional).

7. Lace, ribbons, buttons and other decorative elements.

8. Hair material (in this case llama skin).

First you need a pattern. The character of the doll, her puppet charisma depends on the pose, body structure, position of the arms and legs. That is why I like to create "my" pattern for each doll every time or change the existing one. I have no art education, but proportions must be observed when drawing a silhouette. Here the memories of the lessons of fine arts come to the rescue, namely, the rules for drawing a human figure.

The unit of measure is the head. In an adult, it fits in the body 7 times. I tried to depict it on a sheet (may all professional artists forgive me - I tried my best). Important points - the elbows are bent at the waist, the hands end just below the middle of the thighs. How younger child, topics more head relative to the body.

Undoubtedly, it is possible to exaggerately increase the head, lengthen the legs and arms to create an image, but if the other principles are observed, this will not look ridiculous.

So, I want to make a baby doll, so the head will be big, fit in the body about 4 times.

Usually I immediately draw a pattern, but you can put a sheet of thin paper and circle the head, then, moving the sheet - the torso, one arm and leg. Do not forget about symmetry, for this you can draw an axis, outline one half of the torso and head, and then, mirroring this half, draw the second.

To make the sole flat and the doll stand, we extend the foot and draw such a semblance of a curly brace. We also “pull” the neck up so that after sewing on the head it does not go away at all. It should also be noted that all the details during stuffing will seem thinner due to the increase in volume, so you can slightly expand them, and also lengthen the head so that you don’t get a small head on a large body.

Now we need to prepare the material. I really like to use cotton jersey, it is plastic, soft and seems to me "alive". But cotton, dense calico and linen are also suitable. It doesn't matter if flesh-colored fabric is hard to find. You can easily tint it with tea or coffee (there are a great many master classes about this). I will say the main thing - we boil tea or coffee with salt (to fix the color), in a container of sufficient volume so that the fabric is dyed evenly. Hang to dry in one layer to avoid streaks. My piece of jersey was originally white, tinted first in black tea, then in green (it gives a light pink).

We duplicate the knitwear with glue, then it will not unexpectedly stretch when stuffed, the seams will not creep, and it will be easy to turn inside out (in general, not sewing, but a song). But back to prose, or rather, to the main work. We transfer the pattern to the fabric. The crayon leaves a thick line, so a regular pencil is better. In my case - a disappearing marker, but this device is not required at all.

When sewing pumpkin-head dolls, the pattern of parts of the head is laid out obliquely relative to the shared thread. In this case, it doesn't matter.

Then all the details must be stitched or sewn on the hands with a “back needle” seam. I sew on a typewriter with a stitch length of about 1 mm, when sewing fingers and other small details, I scroll the wheel manually. Important point- between the fingers, you need to make 1-2 stitches perpendicularly, and do not scribble the next finger immediately up, otherwise folds form when turning out. I sew the head, arms and legs completely, and turn them through the notches (more on that below). At the calf, I leave a hole at the bottom where one leg is attached (it will be a little lower in the photo). We do not sew the foot in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe fingers.

After we cut out all the details, we make notches in the places of bends - we cut the fabric with scissors to the seam so that it does not wrinkle when turning out.

I really apologize for the out of focus, I discovered this only after watching it on a computer. With these mysterious pictograms, I tried to depict exactly where I made notches and cuts for eversion.

We sew the feet, rounding the sides. You can flash a little obliquely, as if drawing thumb and leaving down to the little finger. The main thing here is to remember which leg is left, which is right.

Let's start twisting. Many praise sushi sticks - wooden, with a rounded tip. In principle, absolutely any object is suitable, not sharp and thin enough, as long as you feel comfortable. I have this wooden stick, migrated from some board game son, as well as tweezers with rounded ends.

A little about padding. The material can be whatever is convenient for you. For play dolls, natural wool is very much appreciated, both synthetic winterizer and holofiber are suitable. Syntepuh is personally dear to me, it is perfectly compacted, but it forms lumps and tubercles much less. As a stuffing tool, it is advised to use a sushi stick, slightly sanded with sandpaper, so that the stuffing does not slip off. But my sintepukh still treacherously remained in place, and the stick went further. The same tweezers turned out to be incredibly convenient, only its reverse side is a rubber handle. On the one hand, it easily glides over the adhesive, but it remarkably pushes even small portions of the filler forward.

Here you need patience in order to gradually fill in all the details in small pieces, tamping tightly enough and leaving no voids. We stuff the head and neck especially tightly, which should hold this tightly stuffed head. The only exception is the handles at the shoulders, where we fill them not so tightly so that they do not look in different directions.

After stuffing, we carefully sew up the cuts, here in the photo you can see exactly where the body is sewn up. Leave the head opening unsewn.

I'll tell you how I connect the head to the neck. Usually such flat heads are sewn to the neck with a blind seam. But, firstly, I don’t like any visible seam on the face, and secondly, I wanted to make a perfectly even connection. There was such a way in my head (maybe someone has been using it for a long time, but I have not seen it anywhere). It is ideal for dolls with voluminous heads, for example, such:

Cut out a piece of knitwear oval shape just enough to wrap the entire head. We take knitwear without glue.

Just below the middle we make a tiny incision, such that the neck can be inserted there.

The next step is to stretch a piece of knitwear around the neck, fasten it with pins, draw a straight line and sew in a circle with small stitches “back with a needle”.

Sew on the head, inserting the tip of the neck into the open hole.

Now you need to lift a piece of knitwear and fit it all over your head, fasten it with pins a little further than the hairline so that there are no folds anywhere.

We sew around the entire perimeter of the head, carefully pulling the fabric and taking all the folds beyond the seam line. We admire the straight line of connection.

After that, it is necessary to cut off strongly protruding pieces of fabric, but not to the very seam. Unfortunately, I missed the moment and didn’t take a picture of this process (apparently, I admired this connection line too much), so I practiced drawing and, just in case, schematically depicted what should happen from behind:

And we close it all with a nice patch in size.

All routine work comes to an end. We collect the rest of the parts. A long darning needle comes to help in sewing on the arms and legs. First, we try on the limbs symmetrically, then we sew them with a strong thread along with buttons.

Someone's work is controlled by cats, and for me - soldiers, knights and guards, with whom I play with my eldest son, not looking up from the process.

How to draw radiant eyes and make a charming curly hairstyle - in the next part of the master class. Thanks to everyone who made it to the end!

http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/1126199-sirenevoe-s...-chast-1?vr=1&inside=0

"Lilac happiness": a textile doll - from a pattern to an outfit. Part 2

Now let's start painting the face, creating an outfit and hairstyle.

For this you will need:

1. Acrylic paints.

2. Pastel.

3. Brushes are thin.

4. Hair material (in my case, llama skin, felting wool, yarn, mohair, etc. is suitable).

5. Glue Moment gel (you can use any other super glue).

6. Fabric for dress

7. Shabby ribbons, lace, buttons (or any other decor).

My young lady has already put on the dress, but more on that later. Now let's start painting the face. First, I outline the facial features with a simple or pink pencil (it is very easy to disguise). For eyeshadow I use earthy pastels, brown and beige eyeshadows will also work, and the same acrylic paints.

When drawing with paints, it is important to work with a dry brush, leaving just a drop of pigment, and wipe the excess on a cloth or paper. Then the shadows will be soft and well shaded. Before painting on fabric, oil paints must be squeezed onto paper and left for a while so that the oil is absorbed into the paper sheet.

Now to business. I shade with brown and pink-brown pencils (2 and 5 on the left in the photo above) the depressions around the eyes, near the bridge of the nose and under the chin.

I use acrylic paints. Here are the shades that I needed when painting. I squeezed out generously, for beauty, it takes much less to paint the paint. I apologize for the palette, every time I solemnly go to the stationery store for it and come with anything, but not with a new palette, and again I adapt everything that comes to hand under it. This time I got a piece from the packaging of the CD, let it serve the art.

We apply the first layer of white paint, drawing the whites of the eyes. While the layer dries, move on to the sponges. We draw the dimples and the contour of the lips with a brown line, fill it with pink.

We draw a neat nose and enliven it with a small glare. Highlight the chin.

We apply another layer of white paint on the proteins and again we are engaged in lips. Longitudinal thin lines draw the folds of the lips, next put light strokes to highlight the relief.

Slightly shade the corners of the eyes, tint the whites in the corners of the eyes at the bridge of the nose slightly pink, and the outer corners of the eyes - blue. We draw eyebrows.

Now the iris. This beauty will be blue-eyed. We apply a light shade.

We circle the outer edge of the iris with a darker one.

From the center, with thin strokes of yellow-golden paint, draw “rays” (I don’t know how this part of the eye is called correctly.

Now we mix blue with black and darken the edge of the iris even more, draw the pupil.

Let's leave the eyes to dry, move on to cute freckles. The sun is generous - it has not forgotten either the nose, or the cheeks, or the forehead.

Now it's the turn of the glare. It is important to apply them on dried layers so that they are pure white. We draw symmetrically.

And flirtatious eyelashes. One moment - I practically do not use black paint, for pupils I mix it with blue, while I draw eyelashes in dark brown. In nature, it is rare to find truly black colors, and after all, none of us have black shadows on our faces, all borders are just a contrast of dark and light shades.

And that's how much paint is left after all the manipulations - for another five dolls.

After the face is completely dry, I cover the eyes with two layers. acrylic lacquer, they acquire a lively luster.

Now a little about hair. There are a myriad of materials for hair and master classes on creating doll hairstyles, I would like to touch on a few basic, most commonly used ones. Often, felting wool is used for hairstyles - it is very similar to natural hair, you can create any hairstyle by attaching dolls to the head with a felting needle in any volume. It is not difficult to find it in any store, it is a little more difficult to choose natural shades.

The only caveat is that you can’t comb such a hairstyle, you can change it only by carefully fingering it with your hands and risking thinning your hair a little.

Yarn hair is very good for play dolls - they can be untwisted, combed and sorted out as you like. To do this, they must be securely attached to the head, you can again attach, sew or glue (which I do not welcome, but as an option there is a place to be). Only I prefer hair that looks the most realistic, and this yarn is very hard to find. It should be loose, easily divided into thinner threads.

Special doll wefts are sold, you can also look for shops with false hairpieces or wigs.

My favorite material is wool curls. They are thin and soft, like real hair, they can be dyed and twisted as you like. It's just not easy to find them in stores. I'm going to storm local farms in the summer, maybe someone has long-haired goats and sheep. And now I have a llama skin, hand-dyed with ordinary hair dye. I will make a wig out of it. First, I put a rayon napkin (you can also use paper) on the head and outline the hairline and wig wedges. Then I transfer to the skin. I wound the curls on fabric papillots, they just won’t interfere when gluing. A separate strand of hair is a bang.

The wedges must be sewn carefully, applying the edges to each other with the fur inward and trying not to pick up the hairs with the needle. We glue the bangs above the hairline, and after that - the whole wig. I use Moment-Gel glue, and press the edges of the wig with tweezers. Remember to work in a ventilated area!

Now about the outfit. Indeed, there are many master classes on removable and non-removable dresses, I will not repeat myself. I'll show you some of the highlights. First a pattern. Help comes again viscose napkins. I wrap the body of the doll and outline along the shoulder and side seam, armhole, mark the middle to make the pattern symmetrical. In the photo - the finished result, fitting.

Transferring to fabric. The dress will be non-removable, on the one hand - an allowance for the bar for buttons. I usually hem, but this fabric is looser, so I cut out two pieces to make the top of the dress tighter.

The skirt is a rectangle, the bottom is processed and hemmed by hand. You can do it on a typewriter, but I prefer an invisible seam, even if it hides under the lace. I widen the sleeves so that later I can pick them up along the collar and along the edge.

First, I put the top of the dress on the doll, sew it back with a hidden seam. I shave the skirt, put it on top and sew it to the top. I mask the assembly with a belt of oblique inlay. Here in this wonderful master class by Yulia Zh here on YM the whole process of creating a similar dress is described in detail.

Let's move on to pantaloons. The fabric for them is a thin cambric, which I tinted in tea, squeezed into a ball and dried like that. It turned out to be an aged crash cambric (somehow the photo did not convey this effect in full force). The cutting took place late at night, the logic failed me, and I incorrectly positioned the pattern, I had to sew the side seams as well. I will not describe the process in detail, in the aforementioned master class it is very well written about all this.

The bottom is decorated with lace.

I sew micro buttons on the back.

They can be made of plastic or use beads. For example, like this - stitching a bead and a bead together, we get a voluminous button.

To complete the image, it remains to make shoes and accessories. Here the choice of materials is also unlimited. It can be fabric, and felt, which is very comfortable - it does not crumble and keeps its shape, and papier-mâché, and plastic, and leather, and even lace. But now I wanted to create something light, airy, weightless. Therefore, the choice fell on tulle in a muted purple color. Gather the cut out ovals in a circle, lay folds in front and a little behind.

I wanted to decorate with shabby ribbons, but the right color was not there. Comes to the aid of watercolor and a thirst for beauty. We tint the wet ribbon in the desired color, drawing beautiful transitions. The color will become paler when dried, and the stinginess is restored if the slightly dried tape is crumpled. In the same way, I tinted the bow for the dress.

I made a comb out of paper flowers for scrapbooking.

Freckle-cheerful is ready to rejoice and please others.

I also made a coaster from improvised materials, if suddenly someone is interested, I can do another master class, because when photographing I got a taste and captured this process too.

Inexpressibly glad to everyone who looked, I wish with all my heart a creative mood and an airy mood!